In a region populated by well-visited destinations like Daylesford, Bendigo, Kyneton and Castlemaine, the central Victorian town of Heathcote has remained something of an unknown quantity. Sure, it’s at the centre of the eponymous wine region renowned for the quality of its shiraz in particular, but Heathcote has not exerted the same pull for food-curious travellers as some of its better-known neighbours. For many, it’s always been more a place to drive through than to. But now, after the arrival of the excellent Chauncy, which opened just off Heathcote’s main drag in 2021, the town is making some noise on the food and wine tourist radar.
Chauncy took out this year’s Best Destination Dining award at Gourmet Traveller’s Annual Restaurant Awards, ahead of a pack of remarkable regional restaurants from across the country. Opened in a handsome Gold Rush-era sandstone building by French-born chef Louis Naepels and his Australian sommelier partner Tess Murray, Chauncy is a beautifully conceived triumph that takes its cues from both provincial French restaurants and the variety and quality of the local produce and wine.
Spending a few languid hours in the restaurant’s light-drenched dining room is well worth the 120-kilometre drive from Melbourne on its own, but it also provides the perfect excuse to have a bit of a poke around this region that was recognised by UNESCO as a Creative Region of Gastronomy in 2019. Also, Tess Murray is a brilliant sommelier who has assembled an excellent cellar at Chauncy (much of it highlighting great local makers) and it would be a crime not to take proper advantage of that. Accommodation is definitely worth considering.
As beautiful as it is, the countryside around Heathcote, a big-skied mix of farm land and thick bush running between the granite boulder-studded McHarg and McIvor Ranges, doesn’t trumpet its attractions. Making the most of your time here, uncovering the good things to eat and drink and places to stay requires some research and forward planning apart, of course, from securing a table at one of Chauncy’s four lunch services a week. So, consider this a primer for those interested in a road trip to a part of the world that’s more than ready for its close up.
Heathcote wineries
Wine is one of the main draws of the area and the particular elevation, brilliant Cambrian soils and a winemaking heritage that can be traced back to the 1800s explain why. There are more than 70 wineries in the region and one of the best cellar doors to visit is Syrahmi, the winery which was integral to the decision to open Chauncy in Heathcote. Former chef-turned-winemaker Adam Foster has a love of Rhône varieties and his shiraz, grown organically among granite boulders on a property in Tooborac, is one of the best expressions of the grape that is the region’s main calling card.
For those inclined towards a themed wine tour, the Heathcote Women in Wine Trail is a good leaping off point. Linked by the women who work in the business, as winemakers, owners, viticulturalists, managers and scientists, the cellar doors of these wineries – Silver Spoon, Munari, Vinea Marson, Sanguine and Armstead & ECK Wines – are all within 20 minutes of each other. This makes for an easy drive for the designated driver and an excellent snapshot of the region’s varietal strength, including shiraz but also deft expressions of viognier, grenache, vermentino and tempranillo.
Heathcote breweries and distilleries
Less than a 10-minute drive from Heathcote, one of the region’s newest additions is the gin and brandy distiller Envy, located in the excellently named Ladys Pass. This is a small, batch craft distillery that, in a nod to the wine-country location, only uses grape-based spirit in the distilling process. Envy also sources many of its botanicals locally too. Envy’s distillery door not only provides tastings but also doubles as a laid-back bar that offers flights and cocktails, including a classic Martini. A cleansing ale is always welcome after a day of wine tasting. Palling Bros Brewery, an independent craft brewery on Heathcote’s High Street, is ready for you, offering a range of deftly brewed beers, including a robust Oatmeal Stout and a full-flavoured Golden Ale. Food, live music and a beer hall and beer garden are also part of the pull.
Heathcote producers
There’s a rolling series of farmers markets being held most weekends in the region but for more permanent access to great local produce, Harcourt Produce & General Store, an easy 40-minute drive from Heathcote is an excellent snapshot of what’s in season locally. Fruit and vegetables, meat and dairy, plus wine, beer and cider and native flowers are for sale and an excellent café with good coffee and a menu utilising much of the produce on sale make for a fun and tasty pit stop.
Heathcote accommodation
Heathcote may not have the variety of accommodation of some of the more famed tourist towns in central Victoria but there have been some recent additions to the mix which have helped raise the bar. The Cellars at Heathcote II are luxurious villas with amazing views to Mount Camel on the Heathcote II winery, about 15 minutes from the village centre. Equipped with fireplaces, spacious outside decks and – best of all – a walk-in wine cellar well stocked with local and French labels, The Cellars provide plush accommodation well-suited to the region’s upward trajectory.
Those after a little peaceful off-grid action should book a stay at Wilka Eco Escapes. These modern, architect-designed cabins are not only good looking with their clean timber angles and huge windows that drink in the view, they’re also 100 per cent solar powered and feature hot tubs, wood stoves and supremely comfortable beds.
Coffee
Bendigo, the city at the centre of the region, is worth its own story but for those craving excellent coffee and perhaps a bit of cleverly curated culture at the acclaimed Bendigo Art Gallery in their exploration, the 40-minute drive from Heathcote is well worth considering.
For coffee fanatics, the best bets are Old Green Bean, a café and coffee roastery where you can buy freshly roasted beans to take with you, Awaken, a tiny takeaway coffee joint with an expert owner-barista and Hustle Coffee, another pint-sized joint with great coffee and attitude and an admirable side in baked goods.
On the road
Lexus RX 500h F Sport Performance wagon in Sonic Iridium
Now this is how to make an arrival. Pulling up to Chauncy in regional Victoria in this show-stopping SUV is a power move that strikes where style meets performance. With RX, Lexus introduced Australians to the luxury SUV category. At the top of the range in its fifth generation, this sleek new all-wheel-drive hybrid is its most powerful release yet. And it’s as ready for the open road as it is for its close up.
Classed as a large SUV, space is a big win here, with five seats and a capacious boot, all the better for filling with local wine and artisanal procurements. As you’d expect from a Japanese vehicle at this level, safety features are some of the best in class (think emergency steering assistance, blind spot monitoring and more). The tech is top level too thanks to a 14-inch interactive monitor, voice assistant, smart connectivity and high-fidelity sound. And for a final style flourish, the multi-colour ambient lighting system evokes a range of emotional atmospheres to pair with the journey ahead.
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