It’s the latest effort from Federico Zanellato and Karl Firla, the owners of Restaurant Leo, and it’ll be unlike anything they – or Sydney – have tried before.
The menu, the wine list and the cocktails are an all-Australian affair, and it’s set in an inviting space that seamlessly places old-school design cues within a modern context.
This agrarian fantasy is manifested in the diminutive town of Gundaroo, where comforting dishes are constructed under the historic tin roof of the 1865 Royal Hotel.
Ben Shewry recognises the expense of his world-famous 10-ish course meal and strives to honour Indigenous culture and ingredients. He succeeds, completely and beautifully.