Refinement and understatement are words not often thrown around in connection with Queensland’s thrusting Gold Coast, but you’ll find both qualities in abundance at Labart. The compact Euro bistro-style dining room with sea-green walls and bronze banquettes is confidently low-key chic, while the kitchen’s skilfully conceived, classically underpinned dishes ensure the pick of this region’s riches are centre-plate. A humble wedge of grilled skin-on pumpkin overachieves in a rich sunshine-hued pumpkin broth, chicly accessorised with its nutty seeds. Briny whole local king prawns arrive split, grilled to perfection, reclining in an intense slick of molten seafood-infused butter. Wagyu hanger steak is anything but prosaic teamed with a crisp rectangle of millefeuille spud, pickled onion strands and a tuna sauce; while chilled bowls ensure popcorn ice-cream arrives in peak condition at dessert. Service is equally smooth. A concise drinks list succeeds, like the experience as a whole, in achieving a balance between old-school and on-trend.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
