Wasabi’s focus on local produce (much of it sourced from the restaurant’s own farm) may be contemporary, but dining at this riverside icon almost feels old-school – the setting is quiet and intimate, the floor staff exacting. There’s no unnecessary fanfare, but expect an adventure of discovery; you don’t so much order from the Wasabi menu as give yourself over to it. A tartare of fresh-caught local fish with an extra kick, courtesy of mirin, miso, shishito and edamame salt, awakens the palate, while charcoal-grilled arrowhead squid stuffed with baby Mooloolaba king prawns is finished with a grassy shiso and mitsuba dressing. Slow-cooked Rhodavale pork shoulder served with genmaicha, meanwhile, is served in its own rich broth to create a kind of rarefied Japanese comfort food. As for the drinks offering, order some sake from a wide-ranging international menu or a bottle from the impressive collection of vintage Champagne. Either way, be prepared to savour dessert – a watermelon and shiso granita finished with vibrant green nasturtium ice-cream proves to be, like everything else at Wasabi, both restrained and inspired.
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
