Whether $6 million can buy you happiness is debatable, but it has bought a new lease on life for the freshly renovated White Horse in Surry Hills. Gone are the vestiges of former pub days, supplanted by a soigné dining room and bar filled with eye-catching art and designer furniture. Despite the fancy set dressing, value reigns supreme on executive chef Jed Gerrard’s forward-thinking menu, which crackles with playfulness and fine-dining-level finesse. An improbably tight coil of beetroot ribbons makes for a brilliant “millefeuille” offset with muntries and native-thyme oil, while French toast and smoked maple syrup find compelling counterparts in seared veal tongue, green apple and karkalla. Adelaide Hills brie ice-cream flips the script at dessert, too, joined by quince jelly and sandalwood nuts. Cocktails are equally inventive, the 100-strong list of mindfully farmed wines well-priced and thought-through, and service under veteran Craig Hemmings hits all the marks. A high horse, indeed.
Price Guide
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Bookings
Recommended
Opening Hours
Lunch Fri-Sun; Dinner Tue-Sun
The Gourmet Traveller Team