The first rickshaw off the rank of endearingly humble chef-owner Trinh Richards’s exploratory banquet menu encapsulates the “TLR” story. Crisp “bánh mì” crackers with rich duck liver and black peppercorn mousse are a nod to the restaurant’s beginnings as a regional Vietnamese takeaway stand. Now, the place is so popular it’s difficult to score a perch within the labyrinthine, shed-like space. Richards honours her Vietnamese heritage with Thai and Japanese twists. Her mother’s skewered honey-glazed pork meatballs arrive with an egg yolk in salty chicken bone broth, perfect for dipping. Wine by adventurous local producers is also a big part of the picture, complementing the likes of a vibrant green papaya and mint salad, hearty braised beef short rib that tumbles off the bone, and seductive Vietnamese crème caramel. There’s more to come, too: a new kitchen and dining space to the rear of the property will be dedicated to experimental one-off menus and occasional guest chefs.
