Savvy owners, cleverly textured interiors and lodgings on the hottest strip in town make this casually smart player a true crowd-pleaser. Fare is described as elegant share-style street food but the offer is more nuanced than that, with precisely crafted cocktails and a natural-leaning wine list laced with spice-enhancing varieties. Pull up at the bustling open kitchen and watch dishes fly to the thronged communal tables beyond. Chilled coconut lon (dip) is laden with swimmer crab and makrut lime, a hillock of golden shallots and salmon pearls atop, ready for scooping with crisp wonton wrapper crackers. Tender squid chunks are woven through a vibrant herb salad with a four-chilli dressing. Beef cheeks shred in a burnished dark red curry sauce are crowned with a glutinous pork dumpling. It’s fast paced, and confident service is correspondingly fleet-footed. Chill out with a mango gelato and pineapple granita dessert topped with crème fraîche then tucked beneath brittle meringue tiles. It’s considered and tasty, like the rest of the package.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
Callie Marshall
