The setting for celebrations, dalliances and political manoeuvres, this Canberra stalwart has tradition woven into its fabric. The long space opening onto greenery and a water feature fosters serenity, no matter how busy the action on the floor, and the staff’s dignified, warm demeanour speaks of a justifiable pride. The noise is all in the flavours of the food, bold and bright with layered spices. There’s a generous hand at work in yufka rolls crammed with duck, currants and pine nuts, and pan-fried haloumi with rocket, walnuts and green beans. Gutsy main courses include a tomato, onion and capsicum hotpot loaded with lamb sausage and a quail egg, while tart barberry pilaf peps up skewers of char-grilled chicken. Australia’s big guns are well represented in the wine list, and for something more modest with a meze or two, Efes, the Turkish lager, is right at home.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
