The fact that Mr Wong – a walloping 240-seater offering 70-plus dishes and 40-odd pages worth of wine – continues to fire on all cylinders is a downright masterstroke.
For any restaurant to be consistent in this day and age is an achievement. The fact that Mr Wong – a walloping 240-seater offering 70-plus dishes and 40-odd pages worth of wine – continues to fire on all cylinders is a downright masterstroke. Lunch is the move here, when the full spread of meticulously crafted dim sum is up for grabs: flaky, full-flavoured duck spring rolls, say, or peerless, delicate dumplings brimming with wild mushrooms or king crab, prawns, black garlic and trout roe. More substantial dishes, such as firm-fleshed Glacier 51 toothfish fragrant with ginger and spring onion, treat Cantonese tradition with proper respect. There’s whimsy, too, in fluffy “typhoon shelter” fried rice with king crab, dusted in a fluorescent rubble of fried chilli and garlic. Surrender all thoughts of recession, doom and gloom – in this frenetic fantasy of luxury and excess, the party never stops.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, click here.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2023
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 82.
