There are many ways to build a meal from Neil Perry’s vast menu at his suave Double Bay flagship. You could lean fully fish; a wise choice given the restaurant’s relationships with small-scale fishers like Bruce Collis and Anthony Heslewood, ensuring King George whiting or pearly fillets of bar cod in rich roast tomato and kombu butter sauce are the freshest around. Another idea would be to select only dishes with an Asian tilt, such as shiny slices of spotted trevally blushed with gochujang or the tangy Thai-style crab and pork salad, something of a Perry signature. But the best way is to throw cohesion to the wind, to add a CopperTree Farms or Blackmore Wagyu steak for the fun of it, and simply delight in the riot of deliciousness. Tied together with a voluminous wine list and service that makes you feel like family, Margaret is one of Sydney’s great dining journeys.
