For many, a knockout seafood restaurant near the water is the Australian dining dream. South Fremantle’s cheery Madalena’s Bar is the neighbourhood joint that brings that dream to life, all while remaining faithful to the area’s bohemian spirit. So while some will thrill at the cellar’s love of rogue winemakers, others will revel in more everyday pleasures including crushable tap beers, excellent fries and a terrific citrus tart for afters. Yet regardless of personal preferences, it’s the promise of some of WA’s finest seafood that lures diners. And the kitchen obliges with whiting given the all-star escabeche treatment; raw tuna ringed by ajo blanco and crunched up with pepitas; plus meaty barbecued dhufish wings slicked with chamomile butter. As accomplished as chef Adam Rees’s cooking might be, this is no fine-dining temple; the sandstone room, patio furniture and easy-going service are all reminders that a meal here remains a dream that’s firmly within reach.
