Dare we imagine Australia’s dining landscape without this pert(h) osteria channelling Italy’s north? It’s a frightening thought – although some Franciacorta, Barolo or another geographically appropriate libation should help calm the nervous system. For many, the appeal of this low-lit, high-voltage room can be chalked up to consistency. The comfort of dense meatballs suspended in lush polenta; gin-cured kingfish fragrant with juniper; and kickstarting dinner with country-style bread smeared with sugo. Others, though, embark on Lulu pilgrimages in pursuit of newer pleasures. Spiced muset sausage and fingers of pig’s head terrine wrapped in brik pastry reinforce a reputation for porky excellence: you’ll find these seasonal specials on the chef’s menu alongside thrilling pasta hit-outs such as elbows of sweet prawn camouflaged against oversized orecchiette. Whether you do the tasting menu or order à la carte, signature desserts – grappa-spiked tiramisù, say, or deep-fried twists of crostoli – and assured service are all but guaranteed.
Lajos Varga
