With almost 25 years of practice, E’cco has a knack of making it all look easy. It’s an achievement hard-won by the graft of chef-patron Philip Johnson and front-of-house whiz Mary Randles. The couple’s move last year to inner-city Newstead has delivered luxe marble, blond timber and concrete surrounds, but that’s not the reason twice-nightly sittings are still required a quarter century on. That’s down to unpretentious service, an on-trend wine list that covers all bases, and the kitchen’s simple yet elevated Euro-leaning seasonal fare. Rannoch quail, a bistro classic, arrives hot and juicy. It’s neatly quartered over sunshine-yellow corn purée scattered with peas and nubs of fried cotechino sausage. Skilfully made tortellini packed with prawn meat benefit from a lively ginger and lemongrass broth poured at the table, while rich Angus short rib is reined in by lightly soused baby leeks, creamy potato purée and wedges of celeriac. The likes of a baked custard tart with burnt orange syrup, pistachio halva and sharp yoghurt sorbet prove why desserts remain a drawcard. And not a tweezer in sight.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
