Ostensibly an homage to historical British cuisine, Heston Blumenthal and his long-time collaborator Ashley Palmer-Watts have crafted a luxurious restaurant for high rollers, special-occasion diners and
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those who simply must tick “meat fruit” off their bucket list. Dinner is grand and glorious with windows framing the city, a glassed-in kitchen that’s like a choreographed theatre with actors in crisp white costumes and pineapples twirling on a rôtisserie (they’re for the famous Tipsy Cake, a syrup-sodden brioche). The heritage of the dishes is referenced, but a history degree is not necessary to appreciate the meticulous cooking and plating. The 10-course parade is bookended by the meat fruit – the rich, smooth chicken liver pâté crafted to look like a mandarin – and the ice-cream trolley, a tableside factory that employs liquid nitrogen. Along the way, perhaps roasted fish with a sauce of parsley, pepper and eucalyptus, duck with its heart (coyly called “umbles” on the menu) or a monolithic steak with shatter-crisp triple-cooked chips. Service is polished and droll. Dinner is fun as well as formal, not least because the wine list – ably food-matched by sommelier Loic Avril – is among the city’s best.
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
Ashley Palmer-Watts
