Central Victoria’s Gallic heart, Chauncy brims with the joie de vivre of the leisurely lunch. Grower Champagne and crisp radishes from the kitchen garden, swiped through a soulful bagna càuda, entreat diners to submit to the diktats of (largely) decision-free enjoyment. Chef Louis Naepels’s salty-sweet triangulation of pickled carrots, honey and goat’s curd immediately wins trust; so, too, the way a buttery, frothy Champagne velouté girdling sautéed scallops segues to the winning farmhouse flourish of lamb in glossy, rosemary-spiked jus with an irresistibly caramelised chard gratin. The handsome dining room nods to the historic Gold Rush-era digs by way of snowy linen and mismatched crockery, while sunshine-warm service sets the tone for easy indulgence. Selecting a bottle from the standout French-forward wine list or whether to take the option of dessert (you’d be a fool to miss the comfort-packing summer berry clafoutis) is as taxing as it gets.
