Bar tropes aren’t in short supply at slinky, inky Ante: the long counter, stool seating and spot-lit high tables; the firm drinks focus, particularly sake sourced directly from big-name and under-the-radar breweries on regular scouting trips; and the 2500-plus records that take cues from Japan’s “jazz kissa” listening bars. But at its heart, Ante reads restaurant. Almost fine-dining-level attentive service is one reason, but it’s also chef Jemma Whiteman’s fully developed menu, with its cross-cultural references and whispers of Nipponese flavour, that would not feel out of place in any “proper” dining room. Start with any sharply cut katsu sando she might feature. Never say no to her rich prawn casarecce shot through with fermented chilli and pickled clementine. Or miss a chance to marvel at the way she can crisp fish skin till it shimmers like cellophane. Bar or restaurant? Semantics. Let’s just call Ante a little slice of hospitality magic.
