Chestnut “worms” with all sorts of mushrooms

1.Preheat oven to 200C. Make a small slit in each chestnut using a sharp knife and roast until slightly split (20 minutes). Peel using a small sharp knife while still hot (wear rubber gloves), place chestnut meat in a saucepan with milk, bring to a simmer gently, covered, until all the milk has evaporated (around 20 minutes).

2.Meanwhile, prick potatoes all over with a fork. Scatter salt over a large oven tray, place potatoes on the salt and bake until tender when tested with a skewer (about 1 hour). Cut potatoes in half, scoop out the flesh and, in batches, push through a potato ricer along with chestnut meat onto a clean work bench.

3.Scatter flour evenly over potato and chestnut mixture. Drizzle egg over, add nutmeg and salt to taste, then bring dough together using a pastry scraper, chopping and scraping to combine (avoid kneading dough). Form into a ball and wrap in a damp cloth. Cut off a piece of dough, flour your hands, then roll dough on a lightly floured surface into a pencil-thick length and cut into pieces 10cm-15cm long. Transfer to a lightly floured tray, cover with a damp cloth and repeat with remaining dough.

4.Heat 100ml oil in a frying pan, add a third of the mushrooms, season to taste and sauté until caramelised (8-10 minutes). Transfer to a large plate and keep warm. Repeat with remaining mushrooms, then wipe pan clean and return to heat with remaining oil.

5.Cook chestnut worms in a saucepan of boiling salted water until they rise to the surface (1-2 minutes). Drain, add to frying pan and cook, swirling occasionally, until lightly caramelised (7 minutes), adding garlic during the last minute of cooking. Deglaze pan with stock, bring to the boil, add mushrooms and all juices, rocket and cheese, toss together and serve.