The Yarra Valley is a tale of two winemaking stories. The original is an early settler costume drama set in 1838 and the years to follow. Then came the softly anticipated 1970s sequel when a second wave of pioneers re-founded the region after the majority of the vines had been pulled out in 1921.
The thing that underpins both histories is the Yarra’s sense of connection. With the centre of Melbourne less than 50 kilometres away, the region is scintillatingly close to a buzzing hospitality culture. This access to big-city energy drives innovation but it’s not outdone by the bond of country community, which brings people together across its 3130 square kilometre landscape.
“Sometimes we call the Yarra, ‘outer Melbourne’ because we’ve absorbed the hospo and food vibe of the city in our region,” says Melanie Chester, head of winemaking and viticulture for Giant Steps.
Chester found her way to the Yarra in 2021 after a prolific career across Victoria’s other, more isolated, wine regions. “I knew about the pedigree of the vineyards out here, but it was only once I arrived that I fully understood the reputation.”
For Cameron Mackenzie, head distiller and co-founder of Four Pillars, the Yarra Valley town of Healesville was an obvious home for his boutique gin brand. He says the proximity to Melbourne’s bar scene just as the area’s regional charm and great community play their parts. “There’s an approachability here alongside incredible produce and ingredients.”
It’s this spirit of approachability and a desire to draw on hyper-local ingredients that paved the way for some of Four Pillars’ most successful innovations. Among them is the Underhill Shiraz collaboration, which they’ve produced for three years now with prestigious Yarra winery Yarra Yering and winemaker Sarah Crowe. “Gin didn’t innovate for 40 years; we had London Dry and that was it,” says Mackenzie, who jokes that, like winemaking, the experiments don’t always work but that’s part of the process. “There’s a reason you’re not writing about our asparagus gin – things don’t always work. Nine out of ten won’t see the light of day.”
Yarra Valley also has nature on its side. The region has two main soil types for growing grapes and botanicals; the valley floor, a former floodplain with pale grey soils dated back about 450 million years while Upper Yarra has more volcanic basalt soils dating back around 70 million years. Both are amazing landscapes for growing pinot noir and chardonnay, the two main varieties the Yarra hangs its hat on, alongside cabernet and syrah (or shiraz).
With all this variety, Chester is a big believer in offering single vineyard wines, to honour each vineyard’s distinct personalities. She explains, “Soil types show expression. One of the blessings in my role is experiencing different pockets of the valley and their idiosyncrasies,” she says. “We’re just the custodians who deliver the grapes’ message in the best possible way – but it always comes back to place.”
Five Yarra Valley products to try
2022 Mayer Bloody Hill Villages Chardonnay, $44
Pink grapefruit, green melon and nectarine meet subtle flinty notes and oak in a show of elegance and a refined minerality. This modern style of chardonnay pairs wonderfully with lobster linguine.
Four Pillars Bloody Bandwagon, $50
This punchy “faux pillars” non-alcoholic gin uses Yarra Valley shiraz grapes to build colour and burst out of the glass with red berries and hints of spice. Perfect for a riff on a highball, with a generous splash of soda.
2021 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, $70
The sun hits early at Applejack Vineyard, causing full ripeness of both stems and fruit. This creates ideal conditions for the generous use of whole bunch in the blend. Thus making this pinot a savoury bomb of mushroom and truffle notes with incredible earthiness.
2015 La Maison De Ong ‘The Hermit’ Museum Selection Syrah, $48
With pinot noir and chardonnay hogging the Yarra Valley limelight, Jayden Ong’s museum-release syrah is a benchmark example of why we shouldn’t overlook other varieties in the Yarra. Perfumed blue fruits elegantly weave through a medium-bodied palate with a lick of sweet spices.
2021 Mac Forbes EB76 ‘Taken for Granite’ Pinot Meunier, $40
Fermented and matured entirely in concrete vessels for maximum purity of fruit expression. Pinot meunier is for the lovers of light, chilled reds. Vibrant strawberry and cherry expressions, alongside tart plums, make this an excellent charcuterie board wine. Just dunk in an ice bucket as you graze away the afternoon.
The Wurundjeri people are the traditional custodians of the land within Yarra Ranges, Melbourne and further north. The Wurundjeri people’s name is based on the name of the white gum (Eucalyptus viminalis). In the Woiwurrung language, “wurun” means the Manna Gum, and “djeri” is the grub which is found in or near the tree.
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