Kristina Soljo
Spice is the bane of every sommelier’s existence; the ultimate test of our mettle. Because not all spices are created equal. From blazing heat to aromatic, it all alters a wine pairing.
My journey through various culinary landscapes has illuminated the multifaceted nature of spice on the palate. These undertakings have taught me that we experience spice in three ways – through texture, flavour and level of heat. Fire engine-red birdseye chillies bring searing heat that will scare off any wine you try to pair with it. On the other hand, aromatic spices tend to present more texturally in the mouth. Think of those pleasant Sichuan mouth tingles that almost hint at sweetness suiting fruitier-style wines and drinks. Then there are the spices that aren’t spicy at all, bringing flavour without heat or sensation: smoky paprika and a juicy rosé – that’s your time to shine.
Whatever the spice, there is a drink to match it: this is what to drink with spicy food.
What to drink with jalapeño?
Many wines clash with spicy dishes, so pairings require careful consideration. Unlike red chillies, raw jalapeño or chipotle (smoked jalapeño) harmonise well with sweeter wines. The medium-sized green pepper blends sweetness and warmth, elevating dishes like crab tostadas and creamy skillet chicken with added complexity. An off-dry riesling can amplify the jalapeño’s fruity undertones or balance the smokiness of chipotle. Its acidity refreshes the palate when enjoyed alongside pork, chicken or fish.
Try: 2023 Rieslingfreak No.5 Riesling, Clare Valley
What to drink with Sichuan spice?
Sichuan “peppercorns” are not peppers. Unlike red chillies, also used in Sichuan cuisine, they are the berries of the prickly ash tree, part of the citrus family. While their flavour is subtle, with floral and lime zest notes, they create a tingling mouthfeel. Avoid overwhelming the palate with more sensation; steer clear of acidic or tannic wines and reach for the Italian soave or perfumed pinot gris. Alternatively, a soft mouthfeel apple cider pairs wonderfully with dishes like cold noodles with Sichuan dressing, crushed ginger and garlic cucumbers.
Try: Lobo Cloudy Apple Cider, SA
What to drink with sumac spice?
Popular in Middle Eastern cuisine, sumac is another spice that is full of flavour not heat, evoking fresh lemon juice flavours, a tough of tangy astringent, to enliven char-grilled eggplant and lamb dishes. Subtle spice is where demi-sec styles and other flavour-forward bubbles enter the picture. The acidity in bubbles mimics the lemony characters of sumac while bringing forth a fruit flavour core – especially in cases of pet nats and bubbles made with less common grapes such as riesling or chenin blanc.
Try: 2022 Voyager Estate Sparkling Chenin Blanc, Margaret River
What to drink with wasabi?
Calling wasabi “Japanese horseradish” only scratches the surface of its complex flavour. It delivers both heat and texture, similar to how wine adds depth to a dish. If you enjoy generously lathering it underneath your salmon nigiri, err towards a wine with a low pH. Pinot gris is an excellent choice with its gentle acidity, hints of apple skin, and other delicate flavours that complement rather than override Japanese subtlety.
Try: 2023 Lethbridge Pinot Gris, Geelong
What to drink with paprika?
Some flavourful spices don’t add sensation, which some might argue are the easiest to pair with. However, the task becomes trickier when dealing with spices like paprika – offering a spectrum from mild sweetness to earthy smokiness. Paprika is a staple in Cajun cuisine where it is used to season grilled prawns and fried okra and in Spanish dishes such as seafood and chorizo paella. These dishes call for rose, ideally ones with notes reminiscent of strawberries and cream, a delightful contrast to smoky sweetness.
Try: 2023 Cannibal Creek Rose, Gippsland
What to drink with chilli, red pepper and cayenne?
Now, let’s tackle the most formidable pairing: red chillies, a blazing example of a hot or pungent spice. Their intense heat overwhelms the palate, impacting everything else you taste. As much as it pains me as a sommelier to admit it, wine isn’t your friend in this scenario. Despite common suggestions favouring sweet wines such as gewürztraminer, Moscato or off-dry riesling, this route is misguided. Spiciness at this level amplifies wine’s acidity, tannins, and alcohol, creating an unpleasant clash. Opt for neutral beers or beverages instead – you’ll thank me later.
Try: Moo Brew Notto Blotto, Sparkling Hop Soda (zero alcohol), Tasmania
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