McLaren Vale is a tale of innovation and tradition, coexisting in one region, both in legacy brands such as Oliver’s Taranga and the newer, avant-garde producers like Alpha Box & Dice. “Traditional Rhône styles and Mediterranean varieties can coexist here,” explains Alpha’s winemaker Sam Berketa. “I can see both sides of the argument on what works best in the region. Grenache from old, heritage bush vines is (by volume) most of the red we make, but I’m most passionate about the Mediterranean varieties like nero d’avola and sangiovese.”
You can see this passion in how Berketa jumps from one barrel to the next in the winery, enthusiastically talking about this red grape ferment or how the extensive skin contact on one of his white wine experiments is shaping up beautifully. The excitement is contagious and leads you to look deeper into the wines, when you might have initially just chalked them up to a tasty drop with a cool and colourful label. It’s rare to see a new winemaker in the Australian wine scene balance talent with such humility and grace.
The vineyards in McLaren Vale have always captured the inspiration and imagination of wine lovers. This intersection of sunshine, sea and sand (sand-based soils) is what makes McLaren Vale so unique. “Working with Mediterranean grapes in this region accentuates the life of the grapes; we see the seaside influence and sunshine and how the fruit responds to it,” says Berketa. “McLaren Vale gets generous flavours from the sunshine – and we think we’ve got a handle on that now as a region, to not over-extract or let things get too ripe – and that’s reflected in the wines being produced.”
Someone with the history of McLaren Vale in her blood is Corrina Wright, director and sixth-generation winemaker for Oliver’s Taranga. Not only does she have the family archives as reference but she also has first-hand knowledge of the McLaren Vale’s wine journey. She agrees that McLaren’s bi-coastal vibe plays a considerable part in the styles of wines produced not just through new varieties but through the classics like grenache. Wright explains: “There’s been a big progression with grenache from being hard to grow and just using it in blends to how it is now with super-intense concentration, unashamedly medium-bodied world-class wines.”
As Wright sees it, each generation is represented in the the family’s current wine offering. The spirit of innovation started with the first generation, which set up the farm and the second, which sold the fruit. Subsequent generations were the first to plant chardonnay in the area (which Wright looks back at as being hilarious now), while the current generation was the first in Australia to make wine out of the Spanish grape mencia.
This unification of history and advancement of both winemaking techniques, the grapes planted and newer producers joining the multi-generational ones make McLaren Vale a unique breeding ground for new ideas in the Australian wine industry. As Berketa says: “There’s a progressiveness in McLaren Vale, a willingness to embrace new ideas, which makes the region one of the most exciting in Australia.”
The Kaurna are the traditional custodians and original people of Adelaide and Adelaide Plains, over a vast area, which includes McLaren Vale. The Kaurna spoke a complex language reflecting a deep knowledge of the environment and intricate culture and systems. Kaurna was believed to be derived from the term for man or people in the language of their southern neighbours, the Ramindjeri and Ngarrindjeri.
Five McLaren Vale wines to buy
2022 Bondar Fiano, $35
Lemon pith, waxy white florals and hints of sea spray in the glass scream to be paired with prawns or kingfish ceviche. Using a ceramic egg to ferment the grapes is a stroke of genius that builds texture and fleshes out the mid-palate. Keep this crowd-pleaser for entertaining in the warmer months.
2021 Brash Higgins CHN Chenin Blanc, $39
This chenin blanc from 31-year-old vines in Blewitt Springs is a beautiful example of how textural whites can thrive. Lemonade fruit and water chestnuts combine with jasmine and honeydew melon to create a heady perfume tempered by licks of saline oyster shell minerality on the palate.
2021 Alpha Box & Dice Siren Nero d’Avola, $36
This nero captures the true essence of McLaren Vale by deft winemaker Sam Berketa. Flavours of dark cherry and balsamic strawberries intertwine with black olive tapenade and rich dark earth. The ultimate Friday night pizza wine.
2021 Oliver’s Taranga RW Grenache, $75
Winemaker Corrina Wright calls 2021 “one of the greatest vintages in McLaren Vale’s history”. With this in mind, the second release of a premium grenache from Oliver’s Taranga (named for Wright’s great-grandfather RW Oliver), is spectacular. Nettle and earthy forest-floor notes creep up on the palate under vibrant red fruits. Perfect with porchetta.
2019 Bekkers McLaren Vale Syrah, $120
A sophisticated example of Australian Shiraz, complex fruit layers of blackcurrant and mulberry are entwined with star anise, vanilla and a hint of a savoury meatiness. Seamless tannins show longevity to this wine that would make an excellent addition to anyone’s cellar.
