This relaxed wine bar has matured into far more than just Aubergine’s younger sibling. The menus seem crisper, the wine list more precise (Canberra region, some natural wines, a few Spanish options) and service more polished. The warehouse-like space of pressed-tin ceilings and factory-ceiling lamps generates a relaxed atmosphere that attracts natural wine- sipping millennials and suited bankers alike. Having given up the sliders and dude food, grazing options are now resolutely grown-up – croquettes are rich with Gruyère and prosciutto, while fresh salty organic Wapengo and South Coast oysters arrive gently warmed by the wood grill. Among share plates, slow-cooked wagyu intercostals go beautifully with a sweet and spicy hot bean paste and crisp wafers of nashi pear. Finely sliced celery and apple add refreshing crunch to a cleansing salad of spanner crab finished with pistachio mayo. Vegetarian options are no afterthought either – cabbage quarters are roasted to a golden hue, tossed in a buttermilk dressing, and served with smoked almonds and dried sour cherries. And desserts like panna cotta with rhubarb, apple and green shiso granita reflect the confidence and creativity in the kitchen.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
Fredrick McGrath
