Under Tokyo’s railways there is a jumble of cheap grills and thrills. Tiny bars and festoon lights inhabit the night time, with flashes of neon and snatches of music. Shōbōsho channels some of that energy, with a dash of Korea and kitsch. Smoke from the yakitori bar at the front lures people to the little shopfront, where they jostle whiskey and fine wine glasses and order tasty snacks on sticks. Inside, there’s blond wood and backlighting. The most Zen spots are the sidelining booths, for chaotic fun pick the stools at the bar. The main menu is full of all things grilled, smoked, raw and fermented – heavy on umami. Standout dumplings earn their place alongside local Smoky Bay oysters, fire-roasted leek, and of course, wagyu. Chefs call to each other, staff are happy to chat, and no one minds if you pop in for a drink or hang about for a lazy dégustation. The only hassle is trying to decide whether to go here, or sister restaurant ShoSho.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
