The poetic list of ingredients that is Brae’s dégustation menu (“raspberries/apples/thirty-eight different varieties of tomato/late potatoes”) spruiks the abundance of chef-owner Dan Hunter’s organic farm, while cleverly underplaying the beauty and intricacy to follow. Indeed, there are dishes here – a deep purple quince paste jelly topped with pink finger lime; the signature cannoli-channelling parsnip and apple dessert; a pastel, precisely plated prawn and kohlrabi hand roll – presented so prettily that consuming them seems borderline desecration. But desecrate away because the flavours Hunter conjures banish any pang of regret. His high-low balancing act (from delicate, perfect, hand-plucked leaves from the garden to hearty wood-roasted Berkshire pork served with hot sauce) is one of Australia’s great food offerings. A graceful room, engaged service, a wine list deserving of its own fan base and garden walking paths that guide you through your meal’s origin story bring an experience that’s unforgettable, educational and unmissable.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
Colin Page
