It takes chutzpah to anchor a four-level pleasure palace comprising a Japanese music room, Thai street eatery and glamorous rooftop bar. But Her Bar keeps feet on the ground with a swanky fit-out (picture terrazzo floors, rattan ceiling panels and enormous abstract canvases) and a menu delivering greatest hits in the key of France. Gutsy steak tartare with house crisps is a piquant flavour punch, while kingfish crudo with a thicket of fresh herbs and a generous hand on the crème fraîche updates a Melbourne classic. See also the pan-fried Parisian gnocchi with a tangle of mushrooms and tang of sheep’s cheese, for a deft juggling of the familiar and the new. Drinks are just as important in a venue that starts to party as the night goes on, and Her delivers, from quality pre-batched cocktails to a polished wine list set to please discerning Francophiles. They’re reason enough to plant your flag at street level.
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
Parker Blain
