Corella might be the kind of sunny wine bar/restaurant hybrid that would feel at home anywhere in the country. Its position in the capital, however, along with the liberal use of Indigenous flavours and references to iconic Australian foods, give it the sense of something more important. These elements, together with the stacked wine list and cocktails spotlighting spirits from across the land, turn what could easily have been a by-the-numbers outing into a blisteringly relevant experience. Be it the “buttermite” accompanying toasty saltbush focaccia, pepperberry-dotted sauerkraut on a rosella taco, or a ponzu spiked with lemon myrtle, chef Leon Pan incorporates ingredients playfully, but without a heavy hand. Factor in a few hints of nostalgia – like the taco-kit-style native spice rub that adorns the pork chop – and this could well be the foremost exponent of our national cuisine right now.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, click here.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2023
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 82.
