Will Horner
It seems that chefs get as much of a kick out of Pasi Petänen’s food as the rest of us do. Or, perhaps, even more. Each year, when GT asks the custodians of the country’s finest kitchens to cast their votes for the sharpest talent in the land, Petänen’s name is a constant at the top of the list. Indeed, some might consider this award well overdue, but given 2024 marks Cafe Paci’s fifth birthday and 25 years since the Finnish-born chef first arrived Down Under, the timing feels right.
And timing – or Petänen’s unhurried sense of it – has been the defining characteristic of his career. For many young cooks, posts at Quay and London’s fêted Chez Nico plus eight years as the top brass under Mark Best at Marque would’ve almost certainly equalled a one-way ticket to a fine-diner of their own. But instead of pursuing the prescribed path, Petänen took an unexpected turn in 2013, opening a pop-up as monochromatic as it was idiosyncratic, which left an indelible impression on the Harbour City.
This first iteration of Cafe Paci was something of a window into the future of Australian restaurants, where the boundary between formal and free-wheeling has continued to blur, and cross-cultural pollination has given rise to cuisines that defy categorisation. It was also an introduction to Petänen’s singular personality, the birthplace of enduring signatures such as the irresistibly sticky potato and molasses bread, those rye tacos and that unforgettable liquorice cake with carrot sorbet and yoghurt foam. That these have sustained their relevance at Paci’s now-permanent Newtown digs, more than a decade on, speaks volumes about the clarity and timelessness of his vision.
Over the years, critics have labelled his approach “cerebral” and “innovative”, and while those aren’t untrue descriptors, he has a rare capacity for making anomalous ideas and flavour combinations seem simple, even logical. (A salad of raw citrus wheels laid over pistachio purée as a prelude to sourdough pasta with pear and pecorino and a textbook steak Diane? Why not?) Even as he’s come to represent the apex of smart-casual cooking in this country, he’s never let that cooking eclipse the drinks, the atmosphere or – most of all – the people.
His generous and collaborative spirit is the reason his kitchen has become a springboard for emerging talent as much as a haven between gigs for big names like Karl Firla and Jemma Whiteman. It’s also the reason he’s managed to retain a high- performing service team. And it’s the reason why, even on a wintry Tuesday night, you won’t find a spare seat in the house.
Cafe Paci
European
131 King St, Newtown
0402 392 189
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat; Dinner Mon-Sat
To see the full list of winners in this year’s Gourmet Traveller Annual Restaurant Awards, head over here.
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