Budburst, Perth

Our restaurant critics' picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now.

Courtesy Budburst

Our restaurant critics’ picks of the latest and best eats around the country right now: Budburst, Perth.

Are you workshopping the idea of opening a neighbourhood bar? Before you go registering social media handles, hit the newly opened Budburst for a masterclass in getting the fundamentals right. This might be Rachael Niall’s first tilt at the role of publican, but years in the wine industry have given her a keen sense for what works. Gracious, guest-centric service, comfortable stools at a copper bar of sensible height and a thrillingly succinct wine list that takes in everything from slurpable Corsican pinot noir to wild-fermented South African chenin blanc (and that’s just by the glass): it’s a compelling package, especially once you factor in the kitchen’s contributions. While Budburst prescribes to the small-plate school, veteran chef Gwanael Lesle has eschewed the modish Latin tropes in favour of cooking closer to his Gallic heart. Great charcuterie and an utterly satisfying croque-monsieur are wins for the old school, while braised lamb neck and cumquats with a savoury, spiced eggplant reduction betray an adventurous streak. A welcome addition to Mount Hawthorn’s ranks.

Budburst, 406 Oxford St, Mt Hawthorn, WA, (08) 9444 3406

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