Six years into his exploration of native ingredients within a fine-dining prism, Jock Zonfrillokeeps devising innovative combinations at a furious pace. His confidence lifts Orana’s modest dining room to showcase a maverick Australia-first philosophy that feeds all the senses, from lemon myrtle-scented hand towels to Aboriginal artworks and comfortable Australian hardwood furniture, backed by enthusiastic and engaged service and a patriotic rock soundtrack. Side-stepping conventional rules, Orana’s 18-taste dégustation explores anything from roti stuffed with flame-grilled Tommy Ruff smeared with a native jerk sauce to a shot of warm macadamia milk with native thyme oil. Interlaced between several must-remain dishes – cook-your-own damper on lemon myrtle branches to a final note of set buttermilk in strawberry eucalyptus oil– there are exciting new ideas. An ocean blast of pipis is presented in a briny broth of ruby salt bush berry and crunchy beach succulents. Rare ‘roo loin is rested in house kombucha, adding a slightly fruity, a stringent edge that brings great clarity to flavour. The whole journey is enlightening and delicious. Like Zonfrillo, Oranadiners continue to discover a new Australia, one bite at a time.
Gourmet Traveller’s restaurant guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50. The wine star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
