The Japanese notion of “ichigyo zammai” – doing one thing excessively well – is on vivid display at this backstreet Richmond sushi temple. The 12 seats at the softly-lit counter are primed for dinner and a show – watching sushi master Koichi Minamishima’s meticulous knifework, his deft palming “of rice in which each grain is distinct, his judgment over briefly torching a piece of tuna belly so its rivers of fat explode on contact. The 15-odd course line-up features only premium seafood, much of it flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market, with the likes of marron and scampi flying the flag for Australia. Order à la carte hot dishes in the Zen-like dining room – the exceptional wine and sake list wielded with calm authority by sommelier Randolph Cheung will make no distinction – but that’s really missing the point. The sushi counter is the fabulous, beating heart of this singular restaurant.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
“Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.“
Eve WIlson
