Ben Shewry recognises the expense of his world-famous 10-ish course meal and strives to honour Indigenous culture and ingredients. He succeeds, completely and beautifully.
With all the activity surrounding Attica and chef-owner Ben Shewry – pivoting to baking and lasagne through lockdown(s), free meals for hospo workers, Yarra Valley pop-up Attica Summer Camp, cooking with Hamish Blake on Instagram, DJing gigs – the moniker “restaurant” can seem reductive. Yet, the restaurant remains the Rosetta Stone for everything that spins off its moodily-lit dining room. It’s in the playfulness and dry Kiwi wit Shewry brings. A dish of green ants served with pancakes and sour cream is called “Reko & Ben’s Picnic Caviar”. It’s there also with the tableside barbecue featuring shellfish and Indigenous spices and the “Croc Fat Caramel” that finishes a meal. The jokey, slightly self-deprecating tone is matched by serious rigour, intellect and heart. Shewry recognises the expense of his world-famous 10-ish course meal and so strives to make it mean something, especially in terms of honouring Indigenous culture and ingredients. He succeeds, completely and beautifully.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
Colin Page
