The flora-packed Newman’s Nursery grounds provide a fitting backdrop for Topiary, a breakfast and lunch spot with sustainability at heart. Here, in a 140-year-old building and wisteria-framed courtyard, chef and co-owner Kane Pollard and wingman Alex Payne take the “from scratch, zero-waste” route. Wild artichoke and bastard cabbage “light shades” hang from the ceiling. Foraged weeds, including purslane and chickweed, appear beside a micro-producer bounty sourced during weekly pilgrimages to the Adelaide Showground Farmers’ Market. Cheeses and butter are made in-house, and the cooking favours underutilised species and cuts – lamb neck in a Kei apple glaze, for instance. Carp makes its way into fancy fish fingers topped with finger-lime mayonnaise and warrigal greens, while char-grilled tommy ruff wrapped in a fig leaf offers an inspired take on another often-overlooked ocean dweller. Service exudes professionalism and warmth, while slick presentation on the plate pops with vibrancy and colour, mirroring the relaxed, verdant surrounds.
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
