Road tripping through this glorious wine region should come with a disclaimer: travel here at your own risk of up-ending everything completely. The natural beauty alone is enough to spark some real estate dream scrolling. Then, the food and drink culture will have you questioning if you too could master a craft and learn to pull off artisanal alpaca.
Life is good here in the upper mid-point of Tasmania’s east coast in the towns surrounding Swansea and Bicheno. Just over 90 minutes to Launceston and two hours to Hobart, this is a charming hub where the walks are epic (hello Freycinet National Park), croissants are baked daily, and pinot grapes bask in some of the world’s best growing conditions.
From Swansea way, drive over Wye River (“because it’s bigger than a creek”, as the locals will tell you). The full glory of the landscape reveals itself at the last bend at Apslawn when you hit Devil’s Corner. First, a tower of shipping containers and rectangular forms, then 190 hectares of vineyards, backed by the Moulting Lagoon and the Hazards Range. The sight is enough to stop the car in its tracks, which is just as well considering the quality of wine and food on offer.
Where to drink in East Coast Tasmania
This is pinot noir country, but also riesling and chardonnay. And in the hands of a skilled winemaker, it also produces a fine cool-climate syrah (Devil’s Corner Hazards syrah is a good shout). A hot tip from Homestead restaurant manager Carla De Angelis is to check out The Farm Shed East Coast Wine Centre in Bicheno, where she sources wine for her list. This is where local producers, too small for their own cellar doors, are on show. Beyond wine, Waubs Harbour Distillery is fabulously small-batch and family run. Brothers Tim and Rob Polmear (ex-Lark Distillery) set out to make whisky their way in the best possible conditions, producing a Maritime Tasmanian Single Malt Whisky in an old oyster hatchery on the water’s edge. For craft beer fans, Bich Brewery is deserving of picking up a cheeky mixed six.
Where to stay in East Coast Tasmania
Back in Swansea, on its own scallop of Great Oyster Bay, Piermont Retreat is the home of rugged luxury. Accommodation runs the gamut from rammed earth one-bedroom cottages to architectural three-bedroom pavilions, all with log fires and the kind of interiors you can’t help but take photos of. The tennis court, pool and bicycles keep groups occupied while Homestead restaurant (onsite) offers up some on the best Mediterranean dining on the coast.
Where to eat in East Coast Tasmania
Lunch at Devil’s Corner is the keystone of a great east coast eating itinerary. Collaborator Fishers of Freycinet serves local oysters and mussels to pair with a textural cool-climate white while Tombolo Freycinet does tasty pizza and pasta. The best dining, though, is off the back of a ute, as part of an oyster shucking experience on the edge of the Moulting Lagoon.
Related stories
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
