Pilot needs no “for Canberra” addendum. This clever and sophisticated dégustation restaurant, somewhat camouflaged by a minimal concrete-floored fit-out and quiet suburban location, would be impressive wherever it washed up, kicking goals with its original food, warm and careful service and wine list emphasising the skill and creativity of Australian makers. There’s dreaminess and humour in a snack of “reverse fish and chips” where crackers made from blue mackerel are served with a soft, warm potato dip flavoured with lemon and fresh herbs. There’s simple precision, too, evidenced by slices of textbook barbecued rib-eye or the glistening lemon-thyme glaze adorning an ovation-worthy caramel-apple terrine. A Sri Lankan-style green mango and mud crab curry served in a hopper, meanwhile, proves the kitchen’s deft touch with seasoning, just as a sesame-spangled spanakopita scroll and an excellent pretzel accompanied by crème fraîche attest to its baking cred. Gratifying stuff from one of Australia’s best.
