There are few Melbourne experiences more Melburnian than shouldering through the narrow doors of The European on a cold afternoon. The long, wood-lined “carriage on the Orient Express” feel of the bustling room, stocked with smart staff, a hissing coffee machine and Portuguese tarts on the curved bar has instant appeal. Same goes for the muscular one-page menu of European classics. Accompany something from the impressive Old-World wine list with appetisers of baccalà and fennel arancini or a mousse-like ham-hock terrine layered with parsley. Pan-friend gnocchi arrives with broccolini, broad beans and Photoshop-green herb oil against torn mozzarella. Beef stands out, especially a chateaubriand for two, and a lighter protein in the form of a Catalan fish stew, with sweet leeks, lentils and just the right amount of broth. Coffee lovers should finish with espresso panna cotta trifle, complete with surprise pop rocks.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
