Unless you call the Riverland food bowl home, reaching Temperance might require some effort – and advance planning, given it’s only open two nights per week. Settle into the Gatsby-ish elegance of the dining room, set within but away from the bustle of the historic Hotel Renmark, and you’ll soon realise it’s worth it. Executive chef Hugh Hazelwood brings European sensibility to the two set menus, bolstered by head chef Anthony Cresp’s weekly foraging adventures. House-made haloumi arrives wearing a crunchy saltbush crown, while a single chicken raviolo in bone broth delivers a “cuddle from the kitchen”. A Loxton lamb fillet with a quenelle of late-season tomato puts South Australian produce on a pedestal, as does a classic crème brûlée topped with poached quince. Despite the teetotalist name, local wines are a strong focus and always delivered with a story from exuberant manager Mel Hamilton, completing this beautifully penned regional love letter.
Samuel Mahoney
