If you can judge the quality of a chef by their terrine, then John Evans is worth knowing. His jamón-wrapped example, studded with Thirlmere chicken and quail, is Impressionist art – a still life with a small loaf of brioche, chutney and tarragon butter. So, too, a salad of beetroot and fig with Binnorie feta and the crunch of toasted buckwheat. Sonia Greig, Evans’s spouse, oversees the attentive staff and a modestly priced, local-leaning wine list. This couple has created a welcoming, unpretentious European-style restaurant that cleverly walks the line between modern smarts and country-hearty, whether it’s the excellent steak sandwich for lunch, or pork loin with parsnip purée, crisped kale and cider jus. Dark chocolate mousse with milk sorbet, raspberries, wattleseed crumbs and macadamia brittle is both opulent and proof that Evans combines the best of contemporary sophistication and rustic charm to make South on Albany so impressive.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
