Calling Smolt a safe pair of hands is underplaying it. Sure, it has savvy staff, a good-looking room and a kitchen that loves a Mediterranean bistro classic, but this all-day diner is more than just a safe bet. Chef Joseph Koops starts with top-notch local produce, on show in an excellent saffron lumache pasta teamed with lamb ragù, Grandvewe sheep’s curd and peas, but he’s also deft with flavour combinations, like pickled kohlrabi and fresh horseradish accompanying smoked ox tongue or smoky barbecued octopus partnered with punchy sherry-braised chorizo. Desserts, such as a nougat semifreddo served with rhubarb and a ricotta doughnut are playful and colourful, while the well-priced wine list pays tribute to Tasmania and Europe, with beer and cider offerings flying the local craft flag. Whether it’s a coffee at the tiled communal table or multiple courses on a leather banquette at the back, it’s safe to say Smolt has your back.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
