Sage has seen about as many head chefs as Canberra has sworn in prime ministers in recent years. Fortunately, the cosy fine-diner has found consistency with Thomas Heinrich at the helm. He’s pared back the menu and the reliance on foams and soils. And floor staff have dialled down the formality, if anything this younger crew can be overly familiar. Yellowfin tuna tartare with goat’s curd, mint and peas is a picture of intelligent integration. Larger – albeit still tasting-size – plates are well conceived, among them fall-off-the-fork beef short rib with a cauliflower puree or duck breast balanced by a red cabbage puree. Desserts are well executed, as is a cheese course of melted brie, pumpkin-seed granola and mustard fruits. A focused wine list spans New and Old worlds, although greater diversity by the glass would be welcome. Black-and-white walls, floral banquettes, and a two-level dining space make for an eccentric but enjoyable experience.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
