Sicily is the clue to everything, wrote Goethe. It’s certainly the key to Rosa’s Kitchen, where the big-hearted cooking of Sicilian-born Rosa Mitchell showcases the island’s vibrant brand of cucina povera. A simple trattoria tucked down a laneway (newcomer Rosa’s Canteen dons more corporate livery for the legal district), it sets the dial to produce-driven comfort with dishes such as tender octopus and potato ramped up with the crunch, salt and kick of fennel, capers and chilli. Pasta is a strong suit: spaghetti alla Norma features sweet tomato sugo and roasted eggplant in a snowstorm of ricotta salata, while main courses cover the gamut of proteins from roast spatchcock and caponata to thin slices of smoked veal tongue with pickled vegetables. From a wine list that takes Mount Etna as its guiding star to the booze-soaked Marsala cannoli, Rosa’s Kitchen feels deeply authentic – as if this was Messina, not Melbourne.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
