This likeable wine bar has been pleasing Novocastrians for a few years now, but things have stepped up in the food department with the arrival of Cory Campbell, a chef fresh from running the kitchen of the three-starred Vue de Monde in Melbourne. He has turned the bar menu on its head, the fried calamari and chips replaced with pickled sardines served sang choi bau-style on lettuce cups with a lemon purée, micro-greens and chilli, as well as a side portion of grilled chorizo in a red wine vinegar and apple glaze, all finger-lickin’ good. A simple but sensational bone marrow also wows; Campbell smokes it with applewood, and serves the bone topped with caramelised onion and mushroom dust. Caramel infused with star anise and juniper and topped with white-chocolate crumbs brings a humble-seeming layered apple tart to life. In Campbell’s creative hands, Reserve may find itself as valued in Newcastle for the food as for the wine.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
