Restaurant Reviews

It’s not for everyone, but Ray Capaldi’s new-wave molecular gastronomy at Fenix is brave, inspired and often brilliant. Go with an open mind and prepare to be awed.

Hako’s slick new inner-city space has taken the this unassuming Japanese fave from hidden gem to cult-dining status.

Rambutan is a welcome addition to Sydney’s flowering Thai food scene. It’s southern spice with flair and flavour.

REVIEW Residents of the what’s known locally as the People’s Republic of Ainslie don’t take kindly to regime change. Fortunately Pulp Kitchen’s new owner Gus Armstrong maintains bistro doctrine, keeping classic steak frites with bearnaise and a lemon tart with perfectly pitched acidity and exceptional pastry on the menu. Chef Josh Lundy pushes Pulp beyond […]

REVIEW For the already impressive Ten Minutes by Tractor, 2017 was a year of deep investment – and exquisite return. The decade-old dining room, reopened in April in sleek, urbane style: a vision in Japanese marble and heather-grey velvet. The upgrade is everywhere, from service through to Zalto glassware that does justice to the 88-page, […]

REVIEW At Mildura’s Grand Hotel, there’s no shortage of dining options (café, grill, pizza), but nearly 30 years on, there’s still nothing in this Victorian town to match the appeal and rustic sophistication of Stefano’s. In a cellar lined with clothed tables and classical music, Stefano de Pieri marries Mildura produce with Italian brio to […]

REVIEW If you’re not up for trawling the length and breadth of the Yarra Valley in search of its many vinous and culinary gems, Healesville’s Edwardian-era hotel is a good Plan B. Built in 1910, this exceptionally hospitable pub has long paid homage to the valley’s brilliant wine and produce in ways that are anything […]

REVIEW Look around you in the middle of a busy service at Matteo’s and you’d swear you were in a smart Italian restaurant. It sounds Italian, from the name of the place (a Melbourne dining landmark for more than 20 years) to the group of well-dressed Carlton signori enjoying a bottle of Chianti from the […]

REVIEW Longrain still has that “treasure hidden in plain sight” feel, as fresh as the spicy scent that hits you walking through the door. An expansive bar, open kitchen and communal tables add to the convivial atmosphere, and the army of fleet-footed waitstaff delivers slick, attentive service. The menu is a vibrant showcase of South […]

REVIEW Kenzan has deservedly been on every “where to eat good Japanese food in Melbourne” list for decades now. Seats at the sushi bar are scarce because the quality of the seafood and the consistency of the knife skills on display have earned it a fiercely committed following. The dining room with its timber furniture […]