“Dining hall” has something of an undergraduate vibe, but rare is the cafeteria that offers wallaby, let alone served cured, rolled up in pickled vine leaves with dollops of burnt-onion purée. The bones of this diner still reflect the room’s former Belgian-Beer-Café life; service is more friendly than professional, and the drinks list is as strong on grain as it is grape. Plating is modern, with playful elements: blocks of watermelon and raw tuna presented as look-alikes with basil, cucumber and goat’s curd, for instance. If seasonality and seasoning aren’t always en pointe, flavours are true, as with currants and cavolo nero lending a sunny Mediterranean air to lamb rump with gnocchi. Dessert shines bright: taking the caramel in the crème caramel right to the edge of burnt, adding a splash of Japanese whisky and then flecking it with smoked sea salt is a fittingly smart coup de grâce.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
