There’s a running gag in Agatha Christie novels with characters mistaking her most famous detective for a Frenchman. “Belgian,” says Hercule Poirot, correcting everyone. The same misconception could apply to chef David Coumont, a Belgian native who takes cues from both Australia and Europe for his seafood-rich menu. This elegant restaurant, named after his hometown, might be a neighbourhood venue but it bats far beyond its local brief. The blini selection – the little rounds topped liberally with trout roe or house-cured salmon – and an entrée of creamed corn mingled with hand-picked mud crab both delight with their simplicity. The saffron-spiked bouillabaisse is equally unfussy, showing Coumont’s light touch once again. The drinks list is global in outlook, with an apt smattering of Belgian beers. Exceptional service underscores the notion that Moxhe is a place you should leave your own neighbourhood to experience.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
