Quirky Moga is the Japanese version of the neighbourhood bistro everyone wants to find at the end of their street. There’s a sushi conveyor in a wood-panelled backroom with posters of 1920s moga (modern girls), but the garden terrace, with paper lanterns and timber screens, is an even more congenial spot to raise a sake cup, eat (excellent) raw fish and relish subtropical breezes. Dining izakaya-style demands a broad sake offering, and there are smart beers, umeshu and Japanese whiskies adding pep to a workmanlike wine line-up. À la carte offerings also range widely – from yakitori cooked over binchotan to panko-crumbed tonkatsu, textbook tempura and beyond. Try a standout seafood set, three juicy robata-grilled king prawns and an oyster in an intense broth, or crisp crab tempura with agedashi tofu. Not a fan of savoury sweets? Forgo bean jam and cheesecake for another round delivered by cheery Japanese-speaking waitstaff. Hai!
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
