Look around you in the middle of a busy service at Matteo’s and you’d swear you were in a smart Italian restaurant. It sounds Italian, from the name of the place (a Melbourne dining landmark for more than 20 years) to the group of well-dressed Carlton signori enjoying a bottle of Chianti from the restaurant’s extensive list at the next table. It feels Italian, from the family celebrating nonna’s birthday in the private dining room to the glass of amaro offered as a digestif. But the food on your plate tells a different, strongly Asian-accented story. Rich prawn ravioli in laksa sauce. Baked black cod marinated in white miso. Eye fillet served with masterstock-braised king oyster mushroom and choi sum. Yuzu tart and kaffir lime meringue. Matteo’s has been offering its polished, generous hybrid brand of Asian and Italian for a while now and as the full tables in the more sedate main dining room and noisier, busier bar area testify, it’s clearly a formula that works.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
