As far as vineyard-framed Adelaide Hills winery restaurants go, this exquisite new long-lunch destination raises the bar. Peramangk elder Mandy Brown’s ode to Country sits atop each table; a profound acknowledgement of the land and waters from which the majority of ingredients are sourced. To start, executive chef Jacob Davey – former head chef at Restaurant Botanic – delivers a cornucopia of snacks informed by the kitchen garden; none more so than a tiny nasturtium leaf “taco” wrapped around a sliver of tomato marinated in elderflower vinegar and topped with oregano leaves and chive flowers. It’s not all delicate. Dapper staff donned in earthy tones proudly present plump Murray cod with salty kuti XO sauce, and rich wallaby accompanied by a smoked mutton-bird croissant with fermented butter made from excess produce. The winery’s drops also appear in and alongside sweets, including rose-petal granita infused with Bird in Hand Sparkling. A newcomer to watch.
