The road from Adelaide to the coastal town of Victor Harbor is framed by rolling green hills dotted with sheep, bovines and towering gum trees. It is undeniably evocative and when chefs Andre Ursini and Will Doak passed Hindmarsh Valley, they saw potential. The hour-long drive from the CBD is packed with pastoral eye candy but beyond the McLaren Vale wine region, the area begged for a picturesque long lunch option. Cue Lost Phoenix Farm, a joint venture between Ursini (Andre’s Cucina, now closed, Orso restaurant and Villetta Porcini) and Doak (formerly Press Food & Wine, Orso and Fugazzi,) which aims to bring “cool, easy-going” vibes (Doak’s words) to the countryside location. While laid-back as planned, there’s thoughtfulness behind the layout, décor and service.
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The building itself (all white) was an old dairy and a farmer’s market during the 1950s. In the decades that followed, the space was used as a winery and tasting room. The farm energy remains, only now the fit-out includes a new bar and kitchen, a wall of vintage mirrors, a smattering of tables and Bentwood chairs, and a ceiling strung with wooden ladders and indoor plants.
Bi-fold doors lead to a large terrace where a local DJ can often be found delivering an ambient backdrop of tunes that hit all the right notes and just the right volume to let conversation rule. Outside, picnic-table-style seating for larger events and sunny weekend gatherings. On the plate, it’s a mix between comfort food bangers and fresh flavours such as smashed cucumber salad with melon de sapo (more “chunky” than pulverised) and a Lost Phoenix Gin and rosemary dressing drizzled with dill oil. It’s the kind of dish that blows cobwebs away. If only they did a Bloody Mary to accompany it.
On the comfort front, there’s Cuca anchovy fingers (salty, fishy slivers kicking back with fermented cucumber on pillows of parmesan custard and crunchy bread). It is utterly decadent, a little bit messy and ultimately fun. Large plates, of which there are five, range from half a peri peri glazed organic chicken, to locally source braised Fleurieu lamb shoulder, and a whole roast lemon sole of stand out depth and flavour. The beurre noisette demands a serve of bread with which to mop every last buttery drop. The fried curry leaf and crunchy capers are a nice touch.
On the drinks front, there’s beer, Champagne and (mostly) South Australian wines, and a lovely offering of non-alcoholic beverages. Spirits fans are the real winners here. Not only is there a list devoted to beverages of the nippable kind, the rustic Cut Hill Distillery is just 10 metres away. Round off a lazy lunch with a tasting for a rural afternoon done right.
