Hartsyard opened in 2012 when American fare here, beyond mediocre fast-food joints, was largely an anomaly. Now it’s everywhere, making you wonder how a restaurant can peddle fried chicken for $33. (Sure, it’s juicy, crisp and golden, but we’re talking four pieces of chicken here.) Perhaps it’s because the smart décor and deft service are a step above what the other guys are offering. Or maybe because it’s served alongside dishes such as the inspired raw kingfish with Bloody Mary sauce, green olives and lemon oil, and a wonderful heirloom tomato salad with blue cheese, peach and sesame crisps. Their acidity and freshness is the perfect complement to food this rich. The drinks aren’t cheap, especially the wine (yet the list is highly drinkable), but if you’ve just ordered the unctuous lamb ribs (are they dusted with sherbet sugar?) and the bombe Alaska, you’ve already thrown caution to the wind. Sin boldly.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
