Look past the red neon signage, designer interiors and booming rock music and you’ll see that George Calombaris’s rollickingly popular mid-range offering is really a boisterous Greek taverna at heart. Don’t go expecting hushed intimacy (even when you think it’ll be quiet, the place is still loud and full), but do expect zippy service and a fun time. Begin with next-level white tarama and fluffy pita or prawns swaddled in crunchy, buttery kataifi with spicy Aleppo mayo. A souva stuffed with chicken and chips is hard to resist, while traditional options like slow-roasted lamb shoulder (lifted with an aromatic confit garlic crust) will have you looking for ways to marry into a Greek family. Salads and sides blend old classics with modern ideas and should almost be compulsory, especially when they involve peas, mint and milky burrata, a perfect sidekick for that roast lamb. And desserts, like the dark chocolate mousse with raspberry sorbet, are far from an afterthought.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
