A large disco ball hangs above the kitchen at this new McLaren Vale restaurant; a constant reminder that here, fun rules. Frankie Italo Dining & Disco Lounge, or Frankie for short, draws inspiration from the Italian sagra, a festival dedicated to a region’s food. In this case, the party is found adjacent to Mitolo Wines’ cellar door and upmarket sibling restaurant Little Wolf Osteria where head chef Vincenzo La Montagna is also at the helm.
Advertisement
The setting is certainly fit for conviviality. Architecture and interior design firm Studio Gram (known for the aesthetics at Osteria Oggi, Fugazzi, Leigh Street Wine Room and Arkhé) were engaged as part of the $1.8 million expansion. The large arbor-style space is a bit like a slick pergola with vineyard views. In full swing it seats 180 at long terrazzo tables and intimate indoor and outdoor perches.
In one corner, a large white gelato cart shaped like an egg is a sign of things to come but first, there are menus to tackle. Shared options range from the $45 Sedere (Sit Down) menu focused on pizza and cucina povera plates, to the $75 Stai Zitto e Mangia (Be Quiet and Eat) which includes pasta and protein such as cotoletta.
Potato zeppole topped with fried anchovy bones
It all sounds simple but that’s the point. Cucina povera is traditionally known as the cuisine of the poor and when dishes are born out of necessity, flavour combinations are key. Think tomato and olive oil, anchovies and zeppole, and citrus and chilli. “I’m no garnish chef,” says La Montagna who works alongside partner and venue manager Lara Marro. Frankie’s ethos, “E’ la morte sua” is the pairing of perfect ingredients to make delicious dishes, the kind you’d die for. Dramatic? Maybe, but rustic sides like potato zeppole topped with fried anchovy bones certainly steal the show. The salty package pops. La Montagna’s father was a baker and his relatives grew spuds in volcanic soils near Naples so he is a deft hand with them. Potatoes grown by the Mitolo family also appear in his crisp, light Neapolitan-meets-Roman-style pizze.
On top, bomba Calabrese packs a chilli pepper, onion and eggplant punch, while lardo, fior di latte, kampot pepper and pecorino is decadent. Drinks-wise, Mitolo wines sit alongside Champagne, Italian Pet Nat by I Love Monsters, cocktails, Punch Abruzzo, shrubs and an impressive zero-alcohol offering. As the afternoon rolls on, visitors are invited to pop in for sundowners and snacks served against a live Italo disco DJ backdrop. La Montagna’s velvety gelato, made from biodynamic milk is a fitting finale to a toe-tapping, smile-inducing Sunday.
